I remember the first time I stepped onto the cobblestone streets of the Royal Mile and heard the bagpipes playing. I felt like I stepped into the pages of my favorite books of fantasy, history (and a good bit of smut if I am being honest). It was as though my letter from Hogwarts came and I was heading to Diagon Alley to buy my robes and wand. There is little wonder as to what inspired JK Rowling to create a world of spells, castles and good versus evil. If you have ever watched Outlander or Braveheart and wanted to feel the cool breeze sneak under your kilt, then a trip to Scotland is exactly what you need! Edinburgh has it all and is nothing short of magic (and a good bit of cheeky smut as well).
Where to Stay
- Linton Collection- 28 North Bridge: Located directly off the Royal Mile, 28 North Bridge is an excellent location. The rooms are apartment style so there is a “home away from home” feel. The hotel does not have a front desk, but you are provided a contact number if you need to reach staff. In order to access the residence, you are provided a code to gain entry.
The rooms come in studios, one bedrooms, and two bedrooms. Several rooms have a washer and dryer, which comes in handy for longer stays so you don’t have to wash your undies in the sink. Additionally, many rooms have a kitchen area if you are absolutely mad and decide on cooking during your stay.
Where to eat
Pubs
- The Last Drop: The Last Drop, a bar near where the gallows once stood, is a great place for a pint and some haggis as well as a perfect example of Scottish humor. The walls are lined with some prominent figures from Scottish history, including the macabre graverobbers, Burke and Hare, as well as famous poet, Sir Walter Scott. The menu has Scottish bar classics, such as Cullen skink and haggis, neeps, and tatties.
- If you are unfamiliar with haggis as I was, it is a traditional Scottish dish that many are put off by based solely on the description, but I am here to tell you that Haggis has my tramp stamp of approval. The traditional dish is made with sheep’s, kidney, liver, and lungs, which are boiled in a pot then minced. The minced meat is then mixed with oats and spices before being boiled within a sheep’s stomach. While the recipe may not sound appetizing, I highly recommend giving it a try, as I was pleasantly surprised. I can’t realistically turn my nose up at haggis when I lived off of Vienna sausages and Chef Boyardee raviolis. Rest assured, haggis is much more delightful than the aforementioned Midwest staples.
- Tollbooth Tavern: Established in 1820, the Tollbooth Tavern is a landmark in Edinburgh. Originally, the building was used to collect tolls from those entering the burgh, but has also served as a Council Chamber, Police Court and Prison. If you get a chance to stop in, I highly recommend the Cullen skink.
Casual
- Oink: Located on Victoria Street, Oink has the self-proclaimed “best pulled pork sandwich you’ll ever try” and while I know a few southern folk that would give them a run for their money, the sandwich certainly does not disappoint. You pick your size (the piglet, oink, or grunter) and preference of bread, stuffing, and sauce. I tried the piglet on white bread with haggis stuffing and BBQ sauce and I was very pleased.
- Makars Mash Bar: A popular restaurant (so popular that you will almost certainly wait in line for an extended time) serving Scottish comfort food, which consists of mashed potatoes and your choice of meat. While there are gluten and vegan options, I would not be able to speak to the them as I am a carnivore at the core of my being. The highlights are the lamb shank and the beef shoulder. I went to the mature scottish cheddar cheese for my mash option but the stornoway black pudding was a surprising runner up.
Not so casual
- Afternoon Tea at the Scotsman: The Grand Cafe within the Scotsman hotel (which is next door to Linton 28 Northbridge) offers an excellent afternoon tea. The spread includes finger sandwiches, such as smoked salmon, and pastries as well as a pot of tea (I ordered the Tomatin Whisky tea and I still think about it). You also have the option of upgrading your experience to include champagne or gin and tonic.
- Duck and Waffle: The food was so exquisite that we almost went two days in a row but fate was not on our side. If you are lucky enough to go on a Sunday, you can experience one of the best Sunday Roasts that I have ever had. The roast beef was excellent and the yorkshire pudding was like a cloud. Another dish that I still think about at least once a week is the namesake duck and waffle. The duck confit was one of the best I have ever had and there was nothing about the dish that was anything less than excellent. When my partner had his first bite, he looked more enamored than when he proposed.
Where to drink
- The Waverly: If you are interested in whisky, then the Waverly is certainly an experience for novices and experts alike. If you are not knowledgeable, The Waverly offers guided Whisky Tastings to help you find your preference. I lost my whisky virginity during that very whisky tasting and left with a few affinity for Balvenie. I learned about Highlands versus Islay whiskies and tried peated varieties for the first time (I am told that it becomes an acquired taste if you do not think of bog water or the smell of bandaids when you sip it).
With a whisky menu the size of a Tolstoy novel, you will find an extensive selection. As I have grown more and more fond of whisky, The Waverly is a must every time I am in Edinburgh. I found several aged versions of my favorites for a fraction of what I pay in the states, which only adds to my merriment.
- Jingin’ Geordie: Jinglin Geordie is a small pub visited by locals and located in the Fleshmarket Close. Who was Jinglin Geordie you may ask? Named after George Heriot, who was known both for his wealth and philanthropy. The story told to me over a pint was that George would give money to the poor children in the Fleshmarket’s Close, which was essentially a meat market where the butchers once sold their goods. The children would know that he was coming by the sound of the coins jingling in his pockets. The pub is off the beaten path and is a great place to stop to chat with some locals and hear of some Scottish lore.
- Maggie Dickson’s: Maggie Dickson was given the highest honor in Scotland, which is having a pub named after her. So who was Maggie? Known to locals as “Half-Hangit Maggie,” she is a legend of comedy, tragedy, and hearty resiliency. Maggie was sentenced to be hanged after an affair left her pregnant and the baby died. Scared that she would be dismissed from her position, she left the baby’s body by the river; however, the baby was traced back to her and she was charged with the Concealment of Pregnancy Act and sentenced to be hanged. After the hanging, a knock was heard from inside her coffin and it turns out that Maggie was alive and having already fulfilled her sentence of being hanged, she was able to live freely. Legend has it that Maggie would go to the gallows during executions and assure the unfortunate souls that it wasn’t that bad and they would only have a “wee lil’ scar!” The pub is located in the square that the gallows were formerly and so I encourage everyone to raise a pint to Maggie and cheating death.
What to do
- Edinburgh Castle: Edinburgh castle is rich with history dating back to the Iron Age. Bearing a striking resemblance to Hogwarts, touring the castle feels like a magical step back in time. Sites within the castle include Mons Meg, a massive cannon given to King James II in 1457, St. Margaret’s Chapel, and the Honours of Scotland- the oldest Crown jewels. Tickets will need to be purchased for allotted times in advance and are around $25 for standard entrance and $30-$35 if you prefer a guided tour. There is a great deal to see so be sure to give yourself a few hours to explore. I recommend going early because certain sites within the castle, such as the Crown jewels, tend to have longer lines as the day progresses.
- Greyfriar’s Kirk: Oddly enough, one of the most magical places in Edinburgh is the cemetery. If you fancy ghost stories and consider yourself to be a tad superstitious, then Greyfriar’s is the place to be. There are mausoleums and graves with bars across in response to the body snatching that often occurred in the 1800s.
If you are a Harry Potter fan, you will find several graves with familiar names, such as Thomas Riddell.
Because we all love a feel-good story, I would be amiss not to mention Greyfriar’s Bobby. Bobby was a loyal terrier that sat by the grave of his master, John Gray, for 14 years. After Bobby’s death in 1872, he was buried in the cemetery near his master. There is now a monument dedicated to Bobby within the cemetery, where people leave sticks for the beloved doggo. A statue of Bobby is also located at the corner of Edinburgh’s Candlemaker Row and George IV Bridge. And is true Scottish fashion, Bobby was gifted the greatest of honors in the form of a pub, Greyfriar’s Bobby, where one can have a pint in memory of a most loyal companion.
- Calton Hill: Calton Hill is part of Edinburgh’s Unesco World Heritage Site and a wonderful place for stunning views. There are several notable monuments, such as the Robert Burns Monument, the National Monument, and the City Observatory. I recommend visiting near sunrise for fantastic photos and views of the city.
- Armchair Books: If you romanticize antique bookstores with an absolutely criminal amount of charm, you must take a wander through Armchair Books. They carry antique, contemporary, and classical literature- just let them know what you enjoy and they are more than happy to provide recommendations.
- Ghost Tour: Edinburgh has a long history of bloodshed, which makes for tales of ghosts and other macabre stories to be enjoyed as you wander the misty, cobblestone streets. I recommend the Edinburgh ghost tours via Get Your Guide (there are several to choose from). The tour is rich with history and a healthy Scottish sense of humor. Beginning in the heart of Edinburgh, you will follow a guide through the city’s underground and through Greyfriar’s Kirk to visit Bloody Mackenzie’s ghost.
Scotland: Harry Potter
If you are a middle-aged adult that has been anxiously awaiting your letter to Hogwarts for decades, I cordially invite you to experience the magical city of Edinburgh. J.K. Rowling created the Wizarding World at several cafes within the city and was seemingly inspired by some of Edinburgh’s enchanting wonders. If you are looking to don your house’s robes, concoct potions, and take a wander down Diagon Alley, here are some locations within the city that give way to a sense of wonder:
- Victoria Street: Considered to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley, Victoria Street is located just off of the Royal mile. The wavy cobblestone street is lined with beautifully colorful storefronts that lead to the Grassmarket (home to my favorite pubs).
- Museum Context: Museum Context is a curiosity shop on Victoria Street with a great deal of Harry Potter merchandise and oddities, for anyone wanting to pick up their wand, robe, and owl before heading to Hogwarts.
- Elephant House Cafe: Named the “Birthplace of Harry Potter,” The elephant House Cafe was one of the locations JK Rowling spent time writing the Harry Potter series. The original location of the cafe is not open due to a fire in 2021, but a temporary location is currently open on Victoria Street. The cafe offers bites to eat as well as signature Butterbeer and some Harry Potter merchandise.
- Greyfriar’s Kirk: Greyfriar’s Kirk is one of the most beautifully haunting places within the city and served as inspiration for names of significant characters from the Harry Potter series. Among the mausoleums dating back to the 1500s, you will find the grave of Thomas Riddell and William McGonagall, known famously as Scotland’s worst poet.
- Department of Magic: The Department of Magic offers Wizard Escape Rooms and Potion Classes, where you can brew your own magical cocktails (non-alcoholic options available). Escape rooms cost roughly $30 and potion classes are about $22. They also offer an afternoon tea located within the magic potions tavern. The Department of Magic is a 5 min walk from the George IV Bridge an a 7 min walk from Victoria Street.
- Edinburgh Castle: Bearing a striking resemblance to Hogwarts, Edinburgh castle is a must-see location for Harry Potter fans. The castle has an extensive history dating back to the Iron Age and is home to the oldest Crown jewels and Megs Mon, a massive cannon given to King James II in 1457. Tickets do need to be purchased in advance and are around $25 for standard entrance and $30-$35 if you prefer a guided tour.
