Edinburgh is a magical city for anyone that enjoys castles, magic, ghost lore, and a few pints in a dimly lit pub. For Harry Potter fans, the city feels like you have just received your letter from Hogwarts and you are headed to Diagon Alley to buy robes and a wand from Ollivander’s. There is little wonder as to what inspired JK Rowling to create a world of spells, castles, and good versus evil. If you have ever watched Outlander or Braveheart and wanted to feel the cool breeze sneak under your kilt, then a trip to Scotland is exactly what you need! Edinburgh has it all and is nothing short of magic (and a good bit of cheeky smut as well).
Where to Stay in Edinburgh
Linton Collection- 28 North Bridge
- Linton Collection- 28 North Bridge: Located directly off the Royal Mile, 28 North Bridge is an excellent location. The rooms are apartment style so there is a “home away from home” feel. The hotel does not have a front desk, but you are provided a contact number if you need to reach staff. In order to access the residence, you are provided a code to gain entry. The rooms come in studios, one bedrooms, and two bedrooms. Several rooms have a washer and dryer, which comes in handy for longer stays so you don’t have to wash your clothes in the sink. Additionally, many rooms have a kitchen area if you are keen on cooking during your stay.
- Cost: £270-550 per night, depending on room size and season. November is typically when you will see room rates drop a bit (but likely rise again during the Christmas season due to the markets).
- Location: 28 North Bridge, Edinburgh, EH1 1QG
Where to eat in Edinburgh
Pubs
The Last Drop
- The Last Drop: The Last Drop, a bar near where the gallows once stood, is a great place for a pint and some haggis as well as a perfect example of Scottish humor. The menu has Scottish bar classics, such as Cullen skink and haggis, neeps, and tatties.
- Cost: £7-20 for small plates to entrees
- Location: 74-78 Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH1 2JR
The Tollbooth Tavern
- Tollbooth Tavern: Established in 1820, the Tollbooth Tavern is a landmark in Edinburgh. Originally, the building was used to collect tolls from those entering the burgh, but has also served as a Council Chamber, Police Court and Prison. If you get a chance to stop in, I highly recommend the Cullen skink.
- Cost: £8-24 for small plates to entrees
- Location: 167 Canongate, Edinburgh, EH8 8BN
Casual
Oink
- Oink: Oink has the self-proclaimed “best pulled pork sandwich you’ll ever try” and while I know a few southern folk that would give them a run for their money, the sandwich certainly does not disappoint. You pick your size (the piglet, oink, or grunter) and preference of bread, stuffing, and sauce. I tried the piglet on white bread with haggis stuffing and BBQ sauce and I was very pleased. They also offer a low-carb box of pork without the bread in case you want to be healthy on vacation for some reason that is beyond my comprehension.
- Cost: The piglet (£6.65), The Oink (£9.15), The Grunter (£11.95)
- Location:
- Victoria Street: 34 Victoria Street, Grassmarket, Edinburgh. EH1 2JW
- Cannongate: 82 Canongate, Edinburgh, EH8 8BZ
- Hanover: 38 Hanover Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2DR
Makars Mash Bar
- Makars Mash Bar: A popular restaurant (so popular that you will almost certainly wait in line for an extended time) serving Scottish comfort food, which consists of mashed potatoes and your choice of meat. While there are gluten and vegan options, I would not be able to speak to the them as I am a carnivore at the core of my being. The highlights are the lamb shank and the beef shoulder. I went to the mature Scottish cheddar cheese for my mash option, but the Stornoway black pudding was a surprising runner up.
- Cost: Starters and sides are £5-11, the meat and tatties are £22
- Location: 12 Bank St, Edinburgh EH1 2NT
Not so casual
Afternoon Tea at the Scotsman Hotel
- Afternoon Tea at the Scotsman: The Scotsman Hotel is part of the Condé Nast Johansens collection — a global showcase of exceptional luxury hotels, spas, and venues. The Grand Cafe within the Scotsman hotel (which is next door to Linton 28 Northbridge) offers an excellent afternoon tea. The spread includes finger sandwiches, such as smoked salmon, and pastries as well as a pot of tea (I ordered the Tomatin Whisky tea and I still think about it). You also have the option of upgrading your experience to include champagne or gin and tonic.
- Cost: £37.95 for Classic Afternoon tea, £42.95 for Gin & Tonic Afternoon tea, or £47.95 for Champagne Afternoon Tea (I prefer the bubbles option, myself).
- Location: 20 North Bridge, Edinburgh, EH1 1TR
Duck and Waffle
- Duck and Waffle: Duck and Waffle is easy to skip but why live with such regret? The food was so exquisite that we almost went two days in a row but fate was not on our side. If you are lucky enough to go on a Sunday, you can experience one of the best Sunday Roasts that I have ever had. The roast beef was excellent and the Yorkshire pudding was like a cloud. Another dish that I still think about at least once a week is the namesake duck and waffle. The duck confit was one of the best I have ever had and there was nothing about the dish that was anything less than excellent. When my partner had his first bite, he looked more enamored than when he proposed.
- Cost: The Sunday Roast Option is £32 per person for two courses (main entree and dessert). The remainder of the menu ranges from £25-45 for entrees.
- Location: 400-402 St James Crescent, Edinburgh, EH1 3AE
Where to drink in Edinburgh
The Waverly
- The Waverly: If you are interested in whisky, then the Waverly is certainly an experience for novices and experts alike. If you are not knowledgeable, The Waverly offers guided Whisky Tastings to help you find your preference. I lost my whisky virginity during that very whisky tasting and left with a few affinity for Balvenie. I learned about Highlands versus Islay whiskies and tried peated varieties for the first time (I am told that it becomes an acquired taste if you do not think of bog water or the smell of bandaids when you sip it).
- Cost: Depends how old you like your whisky. The menu is the size of Tolstoy book, so you have many options from affordable to high end. I got a glass of 21 year Balvenie 1/4 of the cost in the States.
- Location: 3-6 St Mary’s Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1TA
Jinglin’ Geordie
- Jinglin’ Geordie: Jinglin Geordie is a small pub visited by locals and located in the Fleshmarket Close. Who was Jinglin Geordie you may ask? Named after George Heriot, who was known both for his wealth and philanthropy. The story told to me over a pint was that George would give money to the poor children in the Fleshmarket’s Close, which was essentially a meat market where the butchers once sold their goods. The children would know that he was coming by the sound of the coins jingling in his pockets. The pub is off the beaten path and is a great place to stop to chat with some locals and hear of some Scottish lore.
- Cost: Dive bar prices
- Location: 22 Fleshmarket Close, Edinburgh EH1 1BX
- Maggie Dickson’s: Maggie Dickson was given the highest honor in Scotland, which is having a pub named after her. So who was Maggie? Known to locals as “Half-Hangit Maggie,” she is a legend of comedy, tragedy, and hearty resiliency. Maggie was sentenced to be hanged after an affair left her pregnant and the baby died. Scared that she would be dismissed from her position, she left the baby’s body by the river; however, the baby was traced back to her and she was charged with the Concealment of Pregnancy Act and sentenced to be hanged. After the hanging, a knock was heard from inside her coffin and it turns out that Maggie was alive and having already fulfilled her sentence of being hanged, she was able to live freely. Legend has it that Maggie would go to the gallows during executions and assure the unfortunate souls that it wasn’t that bad and they would only have a “wee lil’ scar!” The pub is located in the square that the gallows were formerly and so I encourage everyone to raise a pint to Maggie and cheating death.
What to do
Edinburgh Castle
- Edinburgh Castle: Edinburgh castle is rich with history dating back to the Iron Age. Bearing a striking resemblance to Hogwarts, touring the castle feels like a magical step back in time. Sites within the castle include Mons Meg, a massive cannon given to King James II in 1457, St. Margaret’s Chapel, and the Honours of Scotland- the oldest Crown jewels. Tickets will need to be purchased for allotted times in advance and are around $25 for standard entrance and $30-$35 if you prefer a guided tour. There is a great deal to see so be sure to give yourself a few hours to explore. I recommend going early because certain sites within the castle, such as the Crown jewels, tend to have longer lines as the day progresses.
- Cost: £19.50 for adults is booked online, £1 more at the gate. Tickets often sell out so I would not plan to buy them at the gate- book in advance.
- Location: The Esplanade , Edinburgh, EH1 2NG
Greyfriar’s Kirkyard
- Greyfriar’s Kirkyard: Oddly enough, one of the most magical places in Edinburgh is the cemetery. If you fancy ghost stories and consider yourself to be a tad superstitious, then Greyfriar’s is the place to be. There are mausoleums and graves with bars across in response to the body snatching that often occurred in the 1800s. Not to mention, the kirk is open all hours if you dare to take a midnight stroll… Please note that Greyfriar’s Kirk (the church) does have set hours.
- Cost: Free for Kirk and cemetary
- Location: Greyfriars, Edinburgh EH1 2QQ
Greyfriar’s Bobby
- GreyFriar’s Bobby: Because we all love a feel-good story, I would be amiss not to mention Greyfriar’s Bobby. Bobby was a loyal terrier that sat by the grave of his master, John Gray, for 14 years. After Bobby’s death in 1872, he was buried in the cemetery near his master. There is now a monument dedicated to Bobby within the cemetery, where people leave sticks for the beloved doggo. A statue of Bobby is also located at the corner of Edinburgh’s Candlemaker Row and George IV Bridge. And is true Scottish fashion, Bobby was gifted the greatest of honors in the form of a pub, Greyfriar’s Bobby, where one can have a pint in memory of a most loyal companion.
- Cost: Free, but bring a stick, dont be cheap.
- Location: At the junction of George IV Bridge and Candlemaker Row, just outside the main entrance to Greyfriars Kirkyard.
Calton Hill
- Calton Hill: Calton Hill is part of Edinburgh’s Unesco World Heritage Site and a wonderful place for stunning views. There are several notable monuments, such as the Robert Burns Monument, the National Monument, and the City Observatory. I recommend visiting near sunrise for fantastic photos and views of the city. If you want a spectacular experience, I recommend arriving at sunrise while the city is quiet. Calton Hill is accessible 24 hours a day.
- Cost: Free
- Location: Calton Hill, Edinburgh, EH7 5AA
Armchair Books
- Armchair Books: If you romanticize antique bookstores with an absolutely criminal amount of charm, you must take a wander through Armchair Books. They carry antique, contemporary, and classical literature- just let them know what you enjoy and they are more than happy to provide recommendations.
- Cost: Depends on the book and how much room you have in your luggage.
- Location: 72 West Port, Edinburgh EH1 2LE
Maison De Moggy’s Cat Cafe
- Maison De Moggy: Maison De Moggy’s is Scotland’s first cat cafe. Located close to Armchair Books, I love nothing more than to grab my next read and pet a cat with a cup of tea during one of my afternoons in Edinburgh. The cafe does require online reservations so plan to book in advance. Please note that children under 10 are not allowed and children 10-14 need supervision.
- Cost: £15.00 per person
- Location: 17 West Port, Edinburgh EH1 2JA
Edinburgh Ghost Tour
- Ghost Tour: Edinburgh has a long history of bloodshed, which makes for tales of ghosts and other macabre stories to be enjoyed as you wander the misty, cobblestone streets. I recommend the Edinburgh ghost tours via Get Your Guide (there are several to choose from). The tour is rich with history and a healthy Scottish sense of humor. Beginning in the heart of Edinburgh, you will follow a guide through the city’s underground and through Greyfriar’s Kirk to visit Bloody Mackenzie’s ghost.
Victoria Street
- Victoria Street: Considered to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley, Victoria Street is located just off of the Royal mile. The wavy cobblestone street is lined with beautifully colorful storefronts that lead to the Grassmarket (home to my favorite pubs).
Harry Potter Sites in Edinburgh
- Museum Context: Museum Context is a curiosity shop on Victoria Street (Diagon Alley, if you aren’t a muggle) with a great deal of Harry Potter merchandise and oddities, for anyone wanting to pick up their wand, robe, and owl before heading to Hogwarts.
- Location: 40 Victoria Street, Edinburgh EH1 2JW
- Elephant House Cafe, named the “Birthplace of Harry Potter,” is also located on Victoria Street. The Elephant House Cafe was one of the locations JK Rowling spent time writing the Harry Potter series. The original location of the cafe on George Bridge closed for some time due to a fire but has since reopened. The cafe offers bites to eat as well as signature Butterbeer and some Harry Potter merchandise.
- Locations: Original (21 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh, EH1 1EN), Victoria Street Location (30 Victoria Street, Edinburgh EH1 2JW).
- Harry Potter References in Greyfriar’s Kirkyard:
- Thomas Riddell: If you are a Harry Potter fan, you will find several graves with familiar names, such as Thomas Riddell. If you want to pay respects (or curse) the Dark Lord of the Wizarding World.
- Professor McGonagall: A grave for William McGonagall, a 19th-century Scottish poet (not said to have been a particularly talented one), is believed to be the inspiration for Professor Minerva McGonagall but this has not been confirmed.
- Potter Family: There are graves for Anne and Robert Potter, which are suspected to be the origin of the surname of Harry, James, ad Lily Potter.
- Crookshanks: Professor Lupin’s beloved cat may also have been inspired by a gravestone within the Kirkyard (Look for Cruikshanks).
Edinburgh is endlessly enchanting for those seeking history, food, magic, and some spooky lore. Although I want to travel every inch of the world, I always find myself returning to Scotland. I hope the city brings you the same feeling of having arrived home.
