If you have ever watched Braveheart, Outlander, or Harry Potter and felt mesmerized by the mist, the forests, and the rolling green hills, you will be in awe of the Scottish Highlands.
Navigating Your Adventure: The Route
I would recommend beginning your adventure from Edinburgh then onto Oban, Glencoe, Fort William, Skye, and Inverness. You will need to rent as a car as the Highlands are more remote than larger cities and transportation is not available. While you can hire a driver, you miss the opportunities to stop in wee pubs and scream when your companion forgets to drive on the left side of the road.
Oban
Oban is a quaint seaside town on the coast of Firth of Lorn in the Scottish highlands. While I only spent an afternoon there, I would gladly return to explore more of the city.
What to do
- Oban Distillery: One of the smallest and also the oldest distilleries in Scotland. The tour was informative and offered wonderful tastings as you move through different parts of the distilling process. The gift shop also offers limited-time exclusive bottles that are not available outside of the distillery that are wonderful to enjoy back home with friends. The tour costs around $32 and includes several tastings of whisky.
Where to eat
- George Street Fish Restaurant and Chip Shop: I can honestly say that the best seafood that I have ever had was at George Street Fish Restaurant. The fish and chips are in a league of their own and the homemade tartar sauce was amazing. I would be amiss if I did not mention the scallops, which are by themselves worth another trip to Oban.
Glencoe
When you first pass through the rolling hills of Glencoe you can almost hear the bagpipes welcoming you to the heart of Scotland. The area is a popular filming location and was featured in several Harry Potter films as well as Braveheart and Highlander. Glencoe has a remote beauty that feels as though you are stepping back in time.
Where to stay
Claichaig Inn: The Claichaig Inn (pronounced “Clack-eg” so the locals don’t laugh too hard) is a historic hotel dating back to the 16th century. In addition to a quaint place to rest your head, the inn has a restaurant and three bars that offer Scottish classics, such as haggis, neeps, and tatties, and of course, whisky- there is no better place to enjoy a dram by the fire! If the emerald green hills were not magical enough, the area near the Claichaig Inn was also a filming location for Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban where Hagrid’s Hut was constructed.
What to do
- The Lost Valley: Near the Three Sister, the Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail in Gaelic) is an absolutely breathtaking scene. The secluded valley is picturesque with impressive green hills and waterfalls that make for a stunning terrain. The hike through the valley is 4.5km or just shy of three miles.
- The Three Sisters: There is no image that captures Glencoe like the Three Sisters. The Three Sisters of Glencoe are three looming ridges that are part of the Bidean nam Bian mountain range in the Scottish Highlands. Each one of the “sisters” has its own name and character: Beinn Fhada – The “long hill,” Gearr Aonach- The “short ridge,” and Aonach Dubh – The “black ridge.”
- The West Highland Way: One of my bucket list goals is to traverse the 96 mile hike between Milngavie and Fort William like Frodo with a knapsack of snacks. The West Highland way takes ambitious hikers from just outside of Glasgow throughout the most scenic parts of the highlands until they reach Fort William. If you do plan to go on such an adventure, a local once recommended staying in bed and breakfasts and utilizing a luggage transfer service as camping can be challenging due to the unpredictable weather that Scotland is known well for. As they say in Scotland, “there is no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothing.”
Fort William
Fort William is a destination for outdoor enthusiasts and in truth, with such stunning scenery, there is not much left to desire.
Where to stay
- Onich Hotel: The Onich Hotel offers traditional rooms as well as beach pods overlooking the loch. While the hotel is roughly 20 minutes from downtown Fort William, I enjoy staying in more quaint locations on the loch so I can hold my cardigan when the wind blows and feel like I’m in a Lifetime movie. The Onich Hotel has a bar and restaurant onsite so you can enjoy the scenery and meal without having to travel offsite. The menu offers seafood dishes, soups, steak & ale pies and other comfort foods. Also, whisky.
- Ben Nevis Inn: The Ben Nevis Inn is a 200-year old barn that was converted to an accommodation in 2001. The Inn offers lodging and a restaurant/pub to hikers and those that want to appreciate the beautiful scenery of Glen Nevis. The restaurant is a beacon for weary hikers to celebrate with pub fare and a celebratory pint after their journey (or before, I am not here to judge).
Where to eat
- Ben Nevis Bar and Restaurant: The homemade steak pie was absolutely wonderful and the whisky selection does not disappoint. Of the places I have dined at in Fort William, the Ben Nevis Bar is my favorite.
What to do
- Downtown Fort William: Downtown Fort William has several shops, restaurants, and pubs to enjoy during an afternoon. I did not feel the need to spend more than an afternoon there but it is certainly worth a short visit.
- West Highland Museum: The museum is free to enter but accepts donations. There are military and Jacobite artifacts that were interesting.
- The Whisky Shop: Explore a unique whisky selection and try a few drams to find what you like.
- Ride the Jacobite Steam Train (The Harry Potter Train): The train goes from Fort William to Mallaig and is every bit as magical as one can imagine. The route takes you over the viaduct and through the highlands as if you are en route to Hogwarts. When the trolley came around with chocolate frogs, I could hardly contain my excitement (although, the prices helped curb my enthusiasm). I would suggest splurging on a first class ticket (around [£](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pound_sign)105) and be sure to book tickets incredibly far in advance as they sell out immediately.
Hike Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis is the highest peak in the UK and offers stunning terrain for anyone interested in an absolutely majestic hike. The green hills are filled with flowers and somewhat friendly goats. As I climbed higher, I saw stunning views of lochs that did not disappoint. Although a much of the hike was beautiful, the weather turns cold as you reach the top and you will like experience snow, hail, and cold rain.
Some Considerations for your hike:
- Transportation: Transportation in the Highlands can be spotty so I recommend scheduling a cab (daring and hopeful but possible), renting a car (reliable), or staying at the Ben Nevis Inn. Expect to pay to park and may I suggest selecting the 24 hour option, as you will likely need longer than you expect for the hike, especially is the weather is unfavorable.
- When to start: If you plan to begin your hike before dawn, (which I recommend as the trail can become crowded and you will have to stop frequently) pack a headlamp.
- Attire: While you may anticipate being hot during your hike, the Scottish weather may have different plans. I recommend bringing rain jackets, solid hiking shoes, and a thermal shirt in case the weather shifts. When we hiked to the summit, there was significant hail and snow that we were somewhat surprised by. The winds can be brutal at times and if you couple that with rain, it could be a miserable trek.
- Water: Do not forget to bring sufficient water for your hike and a dram of whisky for the top!
- First Aid: Such a long hike could make for some discomfort. I suggest packing blister covers, band-aids (or plasters as they say in the UK), and potentially wraps/braces in case there is an injury.
- Hiking Poles: We deeply regretted not having hiking poles on our descent. Our knees and ankles were pretty sore at the end and that could have been prevented.
Inverness
I only spent an afternoon in Inverness so I have little to report, but below are a few noteworthy mentions worth a visit.
What to do
- Leakey’s Bookshop: If you have an emotional attachment to used, antique books, then look no farther. Leakey’s has an outstanding collection of literature that a booklover could easily immerse in for several hours. I had to send my partner to the pub to await my return.
- Culloden Battlefield: The last site of the Jacobite uprising before they were decimated by government troops. The battle field is somber but moving and, after watching Outlander, brought the reality of the tragedy to life. There is no fee to enter unless you go through the visitor center, which includes a cafe and shelter in the likely event of a healthy Scottish rain, or as we call it in Arizona, a torrential downpour.
Isle Of Skye
I have never wandered through a more enchanted land than the Isle of Skye. There are green hills and seaside cliffs in every direction. Almost every moment spent there was in disbelief of what I was seeing.
Where to Stay
- Flodigarry Hotel: Though the hotel is roughly 20 minutes or so from the main town of Portree, the short drive is well worth the stay. The hotel consists of a main house with absolutely charming guest houses and an unparalleled dining experience and accompanied view. The food was so exquisite that I couldn’t believe the breakfast was complimentary.
What to do
- Roam around Portree: Portree is a charming city with small shops and places to eat. I have included a few of my favorite recommendations below:
- Isle of Skye Distillers: Great selection, try the mulled gin. I’m not a gin fan but it tasted like Christmas
- Carmina Gadelica: An adorable bookstore with books from local authors.
- Talisker Distillery: The distillery is stunning with beautiful scenery. Be sure to pick up a bottle that is only available at the distillery. My personal favorite is the distiller’s edition.
- Hike Old Man Storr: The scenery is absolutely enchanting. The hike is roughly 3 miles roundtrip. You will need to pay to park in the carpark, which is typically throughout sites in Scotland. I would recommend arriving at 6am to ensure that you are getting parking and avoiding crowds. My partner was not pleased at the chosen time but the scenes were breathtaking and we encountered less than 10 people throughout our hike.
- Quiriang: The Quiriang is a 4 mile walk that will transport you to Lord of the Rings. Similarly to Old Man Storr, arrive as early as possible to avoid crowds and expect to park. If you are pressed for time trying to fit all of the wonders of Skye into a short amount of time, it is noteworthy that the scenery does not change tremendously throughout the walk so there is no need to complete the entire 4 miles unless you want to, in my opinion.
