- Edinburgh:
Where to Stay
Linton Collection- 28 North Bridge: Located directly off the Royal Mile, 28 North Bridge is an excellent location. The rooms are apartment style so there is a “home away from home” feel. The hotel does not have a front desk, but you are provided a contact number if you need to reach staff. In order to access the residence, you are provided a code to gain entry. The rooms come in studios, one bedrooms, and two bedrooms. Several rooms have a washer and dryer, which comes in handy for longer stays so you don’t have to wash your clothes in the sink. Additionally, many rooms have a kitchen area if you are keen on cooking during your stay.
Where to eat
Pubs
The Last Drop: The Last Drop, a bar near where the gallows once stood, is a great place for a pint and some haggis as well as a perfect example of Scottish humor. The menu has Scottish bar classics, such as Cullen skink and haggis, neeps, and tatties.
If you are unfamiliar with haggis as I was, it is a traditional Scottish dish made with sheep’s, kidney, liver, and lungs, which are boiled in a pot then minced. The minced meat is then mixed with oats and spices before being boiled within a sheep’s stomach. While the recipe may not sound appetizing, I highly recommend giving it a try, as I was pleasantly surprised. I can’t realistically turn my nose up at haggis when I lived off of Vienna sausages and Chef Boyardee raviolis. Rest assured, haggis is much more delightful than the aforementioned Midwest staples.
Tollbooth Tavern: Established in 1820, the Tollbooth Tavern is a landmark in Edinburgh. Originally, the building was used to collect tolls from those entering the burgh, but has also served as a Council Chamber, Police Court and Prison. If you get a chance to stop in, I highly recommend the Cullen skink.
Casual
Oink: Located on Victoria Street, Oink has the self-proclaimed “best pulled pork sandwich you’ll ever try” and while I know a few southern folk that would give them a run for their money, the sandwich certainly does not disappoint. You pick your size (the piglet, oink, or grunter) and preference of bread, stuffing, and sauce. I tried the piglet on white bread with haggis stuffing and BBQ sauce and I was very pleased.
Makars Mash Bar: A popular restaurant (so popular that you will almost certainly wait in line for an extended time) serving Scottish comfort food, which consists of mashed potatoes and your choice of meat. While there are gluten and vegan options, I would not be able to speak to the them as I am a carnivore at the core of my being. The highlights are the lamb shank and the beef shoulder. I went to the mature scottish cheddar cheese for my mash option but the stornoway black pudding was a surprising runner up.
Not so casual
Afternoon Tea at the Scotsman: The Grand Cafe within the Scotsman hotel (which is next door to Linton 28 Northbridge) offers an excellent afternoon tea. The spread includes finger sandwiches, such as smoked salmon, and pastries as well as a pot of tea (I ordered the Tomatin Whisky tea and I still think about it). You also have the option of upgrading your experience to include champagne or gin and tonic.
Duck and Waffle: The food was so exquisite that we almost went two days in a row but fate was not on our side. If you are lucky enough to go on a Sunday, you can experience one of the best Sunday Roasts that I have ever had. The roast beef was excellent and the yorkshire pudding was like a cloud. Another dish that I still think about at least once a week is the namesake duck and waffle. The duck confit was one of the best I have ever had and there was nothing about the dish that was anything less than excellent. When my partner had his first bite, he looked more enamored than when he proposed.
Where to drink
The Waverly: If you are interested in whisky, then the Waverly is certainly an experience for novices and experts alike. If you are not knowledgeable, The Waverly offers guided Whisky Tastings to help you find your preference. I lost my whisky virginity during that very whisky tasting and left with a few affinity for Balvenie. I learned about Highlands versus Islay whiskies and tried peated varieties for the first time (I am told that it becomes an acquired taste if you do not think of bog water or the smell of bandaids when you sip it).
With a whisky menu the size of a Tolstoy novel, you will find an extensive selection. As I have grown more and more fond of whisky, The Waverly is a must every time I am in Edinburgh. I found several aged versions of my favorites for a fraction of what I pay in the states, which only adds to my merriment.
What to do
Edinburgh Castle: Edinburgh castle is rich with history dating back to the Iron Age. Bearing a striking resemblance to Hogwarts, touring the castle feels like a magical step back in time. Sites within the castle include Mons Meg, a massive cannon given to King James II in 1457, St. Margaret’s Chapel, and the Honours of Scotland- the oldest Crown jewels. Tickets will need to be purchased for allotted times in advance and are around $25 for standard entrance and $30-$35 if you prefer a guided tour. There is a great deal to see so be sure to give yourself a few hours to explore. I recommend going early because certain sites within the castle, such as the Crown jewels, tend to have longer lines as the day progresses.
Greyfriar’s Kirk: Oddly enough, one of the most magical places in Edinburgh is the cemetery. If you fancy ghost stories and consider yourself to be a tad superstitious, then Greyfriar’s is the place to be. There are mausoleums and graves with bars across in response to the body snatching that often occurred in the 1800s.
If you are a Harry Potter fan, you will find several graves with familiar names, such as Thomas Riddell.
Because we all love a feel-good story, I would be amiss not to mention Greyfriar’s Bobby. Bobby was a loyal terrier that sat by the grave of his master, John Gray, for 14 years. After Bobby’s death in 1872, he was buried in the cemetery near his master. There is now a monument dedicated to Bobby within the cemetery, where people leave sticks for the beloved doggo. A statue of Bobby is also located at the corner of Edinburgh’s Candlemaker Row and George IV Bridge. And is true Scottish fashion, Bobby was gifted the greatest of honors in the form of a pub, Greyfriar’s Bobby, where one can have a pint in memory of a most loyal companion.
Calton Hill: Calton Hill is part of Edinburgh’s Unesco World Heritage Site and a wonderful place for stunning views. There are several notable monuments, such as the Robert Burns Monument, the National Monument, and the City Observatory. I recommend visiting near sunrise for fantastic photos and views of the city.
Armchair Books: If you romanticize antique bookstores with an absolutely criminal amount of charm, you must take a wander through Armchair Books. They carry antique, contemporary, and classical literature- just let them know what you enjoy and they are more than happy to provide recommendations.
Ghost Tour: Edinburgh has a long history of bloodshed, which makes for tales of ghosts and other macabre stories to be enjoyed as you wander the misty, cobblestone streets. I recommend the Edinburgh ghost tours via Get Your Guide (there are several to choose from). The tour is rich with history and a healthy Scottish sense of humor. Beginning in the heart of Edinburgh, you will follow a guide through the city’s underground and through Greyfriar’s Kirk to visit Bloody Mackenzie’s ghost.
Victoria Street: Considered to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley, Victoria Street is located just off of the Royal mile. The wavy cobblestone street is lined with beautifully colorful storefronts that lead to the Grassmarket (home to my favorite pubs). The street is home to Museum Context, a curiosity shop on Victoria Street with a great deal of Harry Potter merchandise and oddities, for anyone wanting to pick up their wand, robe, and owl before heading to Hogwarts. Elephant House Cafe, named the “Birthplace of Harry Potter,” is also located on Victoria Street. The Elephant House Cafe was one of the locations JK Rowling spent time writing the Harry Potter series. The original location of the cafe is not open due to a fire in 2021, but a temporary location is currently open on Victoria Street. The cafe offers bites to eat as well as signature Butterbeer and some Harry Potter merchandise.
- Oban: Oban is a quaint seaside town on the coast of Firth of Lorn in the Scottish highlands. While I only spent an afternoon there, I would gladly return to explore more of the city.
What to do
- Oban Distillery: One of the smallest and also the oldest distilleries in Scotland. The tour was informative and offered wonderful tastings as you move through different parts of the distilling process. The gift shop also offers limited-time exclusive bottles that are not available outside of the distillery that are wonderful to enjoy back home with friends.
Where to eat
- George Street Fish Restaurant and Chip Shop: I can honestly say that the best seafood that I have ever had was at George Street Fish Restaurant. The fish and chips are in a league of their own and the homemade tartar sauce was amazing. I would be amiss if I did not mention the scallops, which are by themselves worth another trip to Oban.
- Glencoe: When you first pass through the rolling hills of Glencoe you can almost hear the bagpipes welcoming you to the heart of Scotland. The area is a popular filming location and was featured in several Harry Potter films as well as Braveheart and Highlander. Glencoe has a remote beauty that feels as though you are stepping back in time.
Where to stay
**Claichaig Inn**: The Claichaig Inn is a historic hotel dating back to the 16th century. In addition to a quaint place to rest your head, the inn has a restaurant and three bars that offer Scottish classics, such as haggis, neeps, and tatties, and of course, whisky- there is no better place to enjoy a dram! If the emerald green hills were not magical enough, the area near the Claichaig Inn was also a filming location for Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban where Hagrid’s Hut was constructed.
What to do
**The Lost Valley:** Near the Three Sister, the Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail in Gaelic) is an absolutely breathtaking scene. The secluded valley is picturesque with impressive green hills and waterfalls that make for a stunning terrain. The hike through the valley is 4.5km or just shy of three miles.
**The Three Sisters**: There is no image that captures Glencoe like the Three Sisters. The Three Sisters of Glencoe are three looming ridges that are part of the Bidean nam Bian mountain range in the Scottish Highlands. Each one of the “sisters” has its own name and character: **Beinn Fhada** – The “long hill,” **Gearr Aonach** – The “short ridge,” and **Aonach Dubh** – The “black ridge.”
**The West Highland Way: **One of my bucket list goals is to traverse the 96 mile hike between Milngavie and Fort William like Frodo with a knapsack of snacks. The West Highland way takes ambitious hikers from just outside of Glasgow throughout the most scenic parts of the highlands until they reach Fort William. If you do plan to go on such an adventure, a local once recommended staying in bed and breakfasts and utilizing a luggage transfer service as camping can be challenging due to the unpredictable weather that Scotland is known well for. As they say in Scotland, “there is no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothing.”
- Fort William : Fort William is a destination for outdoor enthusiasts and in truth, with such stunning scenery, there is not much left to desire.
Where to stay
** Onich Hotel:** The Onich Hotel offers traditional rooms as well as beach pods overlooking the loch. While the hotel is roughly 20 minutes from downtown Fort William, I enjoy staying in more quaint locations on the loch so I can hold my cardigan when the wind blows and feel like I’m in a Lifetime movie. The Onich Hotel has a bar and restaurant onsite so you can enjoy the scenery and meal without having to travel offsite. The menu offers seafood dishes, soups, steak & ale pies and other comfort foods. Also, whisky.
**Ben Nevis Inn: **The Ben Nevis Inn is a 200-year old barn that was converted to an accommodation in 2001. The Inn offers lodging and a restaurant/pub to hikers and those that want to appreciate the beautiful scenery of Glen Nevis. The restaurant is a beacon for weary hikers to celebrate with pub fare and a celebratory pint after their journey (or before, I am not here to judge).
Where to eat
**Ben Nevis Bar and Restaurant: **The homemade steak pie was absolutely wonderful and the whisky selection does not disappoint. Of the places I have dined at in Fort William, the Ben Nevis Bar is my favorite.
What to do
**Downtown Fort William: **Downtown Fort William has several shops, restaurants, and pubs to enjoy during an afternoon. I did not feel the need to spend more than an afternoon there but it is certainly worth a short visit.
- West Highland Museum: The museum is free to enter but accepts donations. There are military and Jacobite artifacts that were interesting.
- The Whisky Shop: Explore a unique whisky selection and try a few drams to find what you like.
**Ride the Jacobite Steam Train (The Harry Potter Train): **The train goes from Fort William to Mallaig and is every bit as magical as one can imagine. The route takes you over the viaduct and through the highlands as if you are en route to Hogwarts. When the trolley came around with chocolate frogs, I could hardly contain my excitement (although, the prices helped curb my enthusiasm). I would suggest splurging on a first class ticket (around [£](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pound_sign)105) and be sure to book tickets incredibly far in advance as they sell out immediately.
**Hike Ben Nevis: **Ben Nevis is the highest peak in the UK and offers stunning terrain for anyone interested in an absolutely majestic hike. The green hills are filled with flowers and somewhat friendly goats. As I climbed higher, I saw stunning views of lochs that did not disappoint.
Some considerations for your hike
- Transportation: Transportation in the Highlands can be spotty so I recommend scheduling a cab (daring and hopeful but possible), renting a car (reliable), or staying at the Ben Nevis Inn. Expect to pay to park and may I suggest selecting the 24 hour option, as you will likely need longer than you expect for the hike, especially is the weather is unfavorable.
- When to start: If you plan to begin your hike before dawn, (which I recommend as the trail can become crowded and you will have to stop frequently) pack a headlamp.
- Attire: While you may anticipate being hot during your hike, the Scottish weather may have different plans. I recommend bringing rain jackets, solid hiking shoes, and a thermal shirt in case the weather shifts. When we hiked to the summit, there was significant hail and snow that we were somewhat surprised by. The winds can be brutal at times and if you couple that with rain, it could be a miserable trek.
- Water: Do not forget to bring sufficient water for your hike and a dram of whisky for the top!
- First Aid: Such a long hike could make for some discomfort. I suggest packing blister covers, band-aids (or plasters as they say in the UK), and potentially wraps/braces in case there is an injury.
- Hiking Poles: We deeply regretted not having hiking poles on our descent. Our knees and ankles were pretty sore at the end and that could have been prevented.
**5. Isle Of Skye**: I have never wandered through a more enchanted land than the Isle of Skye.
Where to Stay
**Flodigarry Hotel:** Though the hotel is roughly 20 minutes or so from the main town of Portree, the short drive is well worth the stay. The hotel consists of a main house with absolutely charming guest houses and an unparalleled dining experience and accompanied view. The food was so exquisite that I couldn’t believe the breakfast was complimentary.
What to do
**Roam around Portree: **Portree is a charming city with small shops and places to eat. I have included a few of my favorite recommendations below:
-Isle of Skye Distillers: Great selection, try the mulled gin. I’m not a gin fan but it tasted like Christmas
-Carmina Gadelica: An adorable bookstore with books from local
authors.
**Talisker Distillery: **The distillery is stunning with beautiful scenery. Be sure to pick up a bottle that is only available at the distillery. My personal favorite is the distiller’s edition.
**Hike Old Man Storr: **The scenery is absolutely enchanting. The hike is roughly 3 miles roundtrip. You will need to pay to park in the carpark, which is typically throughout sites in Scotland. I would recommend arriving at 6am to ensure that you are getting parking and avoiding crowds. My partner was not pleased at the chosen time but the scenes were breathtaking and we encountered less than 10 people throughout our hike.
**Quiriang:** The Quiriang is a 4 mile walk that will transport you to Lord of the Rings. Similarly to Old Man Storr, arrive as early as possible to avoid crowds and expect to park. If you are pressed for time trying to fit all of the wonders of Skye into a short amount of time, it is noteworthy that the scenery does not change tremendously throughout the walk so there is no need to complete the entire 4 miles unless you want to, in my opinion.
